Yes, brand-new building homes do need pest control. Fresh products, disrupted soil, and incomplete details create short-term opportunities for insects, and the surrounding landscape and environment can turn those early spaces into long-term issues if you do nothing. The crucial distinction with brand-new builds is timing. You can avoid most infestations by shaping building and construction practices and early upkeep, rather than waiting for an exterminator after you see droppings or wings on a windowsill.
Why insects appear in brand-new houses
On a jobsite, everything that attracts bugs is present at the same time. Lumber stacked on the ground. Open wall cavities. Wet concrete that is still treating. Dumpsters with food wrappers from the team. The soil around the foundation has been disturbed, which invites ants and termites to explore. Grading and drain are still in flux. Doors go in before limits get sealed. Electrical contractors and plumbing technicians punch holes for lines, then relocate to the next unit. All of this creates a buffet of shelter, wetness, and access.
A brand-new house is likewise surrounded by interrupted habitat. When trees come down and the ground is scraped, rodents, spiders, and insects seek the nearby stable shelter. That could be your garage, a gap under a sill plate, or the space behind a tub surround. Even upscale, tightly constructed homes see a preliminary wave of activity during and simply after tenancy because pests are just following the course of least resistance.
I have actually strolled hundreds of punch lists where the outside looked beautiful from five feet away, yet a half-inch space at the bottom of a garage side door or a missing escutcheon around a pipeline was enough to invite mice within a week. With new construction, these are not defects so much as an anticipated finishing series that requires intentional pest-minded follow-through.
The most common insects in brand-new builds
The cast of characters depends on region and structure type, but particular patterns hold.
Termites, specifically below ground termites in the Southeast, Mid-Atlantic, and Gulf states, utilize soil contact to reach structural wood. If the contractor fails to deal with the soil under the slab, leaves form boards in contact with grade, or stacks mulch too deeply versus siding, termites can discover the structure quickly. In parts of the Southwest, drywood termites ride in on infested trim or pallets.
Ants hunt non-stop. Pavement ants and Argentine ants will nest under slab edges or behind exterior foam. Carpenter ants, typical across northern forests and Pacific Northwest, target wet wood around window bucks and improperly flashed decks.
Rodents need a hole the width of your thumb. Construction stages leave foundation vents propped open, garage doors unsealed at the corners, and utility penetrations large. A mouse will follow the border till it feels a draft and capture in.
Cockroaches, notably German cockroaches, generally arrive in boxes and home appliances instead of from the soil. Contractors seldom present them. Move-in day does. Restaurant takeout in the garage while you unload helps them establish.
Spiders and periodic intruders like house centipedes, earwigs, and millipedes relocate since brand-new homes hold wetness, particularly in basements and crawlspaces while concrete remedies. You also see cluster flies and stink bugs in fall if soffits and attic vents do not have appropriate screening.
Carpenter bees and wood-boring beetles target exposed or untreated softwoods on patios, fascia, and pergolas. If outside trim is primed however not fully painted for a couple of weeks, you can get early season dull scars.
Mosquitoes grow any place grading traps water. Freshly cut lots often hold shallow depressions, clogged up swales, or ruts from heavy equipment. A week of warm weather and those puddles hatch.
The lesson is not to fear bugs, however to understand their foreseeable routes and cut them off early.
Construction-phase steps that make a difference
Good pest control for brand-new homes starts before the drywall goes up. A few of these steps are up to the builder, some to the house owner who is taking note and asking the best concerns. The best results occur when both celebrations treat insect prevention as part of develop quality, not an afterthought.
Pre-treats at the soil and framing user interface are the foundation in termite regions. There are 2 main methods: a soil-applied termiticide before slab put, or physical barriers such as stainless-steel mesh at penetrations and termite shields on piers. In some markets, home builders install bait systems after final grading. Each has compromises. Soil treatments work well however can be jeopardized by later energies or landscaping; bait systems need monitoring however use less chemical. Request for documentation of the pre-treat and keep it with your closing documents, since your guarantee and future re-finance appraisals might ask for it.
Capillary breaks and moisture control lower danger far beyond termites. Proper gravel base and vapor barrier under slabs, sealed sump lids, and well-placed dehumidifiers in the very first summer season keep wood from remaining wet. Damp wood brings in carpenter ants and fungi, and when ants tunnel into foam or framing, repair work expenses increase sharply.
Sealing the structure envelope is not almost energy performance. Every penetration needs a purpose-made escutcheon or boot and a premium sealant compatible with the products. Electric meter bases, hose bibs, air conditioning linesets, gas risers, drain cleanouts, and low-voltage channels are typical weak points. Extra-large holes get filled with backer rod before sealing, not caulk stuffed into empty air. Insects feel air flow. If you can feel it with your hand on a windy day, they can find it.
Sill plates and garage user interfaces should have special attention. The bottom corners of garage doors are cutouts for the track. If the concrete is not perfectly level, daytime shows through. Set up diagonal threshold seals or adjustable aluminum limits. At house-to-garage doors, utilize door sweeps that really touch the flooring, and weatherstrip on all sides. The space under a laundry-room door to the garage is among the fastest rodent paths inside.
Roof and attic details matter. Gable vents and soffits must be evaluated with hardware fabric sized to stay out wasps and rodents, not just bugs. Ridge vents require end caps sealed against bats. Foam typically gets sprayed kindly, then cut, leaving small spaces that hornets love to exploit. If your home is in a wooded location, demand a full mesh wrap at any attic vent larger than a register cover.
The dumpster and lunch rule is simple: clean sites have less pests. Ask your superintendent to keep the dumpster lid closed and to arrange more frequent hauls if it overruns. Food waste in a roll-off draws in rodents and flies, which then explore your framing and garage.
What modifications after move-in
Once you get secrets, the rhythm shifts from construction control to property owner routines. Those very first 4 to six months are key. Your home off-gasses, concrete treatments, landscaping settles, and trades return to fix punch products. Meanwhile, insects are still assessing.
Moisture stays opponent number one. Run bath fans enough time to clear mirrors. If your basement smells earthy or your hygrometer checks out above 55 percent in summertime, run a dehumidifier. Look for condensation on ducts and around linesets that pass through rim joists. Drips at P-traps and tiny pinholes near crimps on icemaker lines can go undetected for weeks, and the first sign might be carpenter ants pulling frass from a toe-kick.
Trash and recycling storage often get ignored. Cardboard is a German cockroach express. Break boxes down quickly, store bins with tight lids, and keep them off the garage flooring if you see rodent droppings. Garage door seals compress and take a set; adjust them during the very first season so the corners stay tight.
Landscaping choices either assist you or make your pest-control spending plan climb. Mulch depth should remain around two inches, not 4 or 6. Keep mulch drew back three to six inches from siding. Prevent stacking topsoil versus wood trim. If you are planting shrubs, leave at least 18 inches of air gap between foliage and your house. Watering heads must not hit the siding. That day-to-day wetting attracts ants and rot fungi.
Lighting changes insect habits. Warm-spectrum LED bulbs bring in less flying pests than cool-white. Mount fixtures away from doors when possible. I changed three can lights at a customer's entry with protected sconces aimed downward and cut the nightly moth cloud to a third.
Plan your storage. Attics and crawlspaces are tempting for off-season clothing and holiday décor, yet cardboard boxes lure silverfish and mice. Use sealed plastic bins, and if you see droppings, set breeze traps before you have a colony. Baits have their location, but you do not wish to produce dead-mouse smell in unattainable cavities.
When to bring in a professional
You can deal with lots of elements of avoidance yourself, but 2 minutes justify calling a certified pest control business. Initially, during building or just after closing if you are in a termite region. Verifying the pre-treat and deciding on a monitoring strategy is not a do-it-yourself workout. Second, at the first sign of an active problem: live roaches in daytime, routine ant tracks inside, munch marks on baseboards, or repeating wasp nests in the same soffit cavity. A trustworthy exterminator will detect the entry points and the conditions that support the bug, not just spray and go.
In my experience, the ideal company imitates an extra set of eyes on your building shell. For instance, I as soon as had a customer with ants appearing seasonally in a second-floor bath. The pro noticed an improperly sealed vent stack flashing that let water wick into the sheathing. Fixing the flashing solved the ant problem. No residual treatment required. A great specialist discuss moisture, spaces, and grades as much as about chemicals.
If you prefer a service plan, look for one that emphasizes assessment and exemption, not just calendar sprays. Quarterly gos to that consist of structure checks, attic evaluations, and exterior caulking touch-ups are worth more than a monthly perimeter squirt. In termite zones, yearly inspection with a bait or soil-treatment service warranty is standard. Keep records. If you offer the home, a transferable termite bond can relieve buyers' minds.
Building science information that suppress pests
A home that handles water, air, and heat well also resists pests. The overlaps are practical.
Air sealing reduces drafts that carry odors and wetness, which both draw in bugs. Focus on rim joists, top plates, and around can lights in attics. If you have spray foam, confirm that batts or foam fully cover the rim. I routinely discover uninsulated, unsealed rim bays behind finished walls that operate as highways for mice.
Drainage airplanes and flashing information stop hidden damp areas that draw ants and beetles. Kickout flashing at roof-to-wall shifts keeps water from running behind siding. Window head flashing that laps effectively over the weather-resistive barrier prevents the little rot pockets carpenter ants like. These details are not exotic; they are line products that often get rushed.
Ventilation balances humidity. A tight home requirements well balanced intake and exhaust, not simply a big variety hood that depressurizes and draws insects in through gaps. Think about a dedicated cosmetics air set for large exhaust fans. In damp climates, set restroom fan timers for 20 to thirty minutes after showers.
Material choices matter. Pressure-treated bottom plates on pieces and borate-treated sill plates in wet zones purchase you margin. Cementitious siding withstands carpenter bees much better than soft pine. Strong PVC or fiber cement for exterior trim where it touches masonry keeps ants from burrowing into punky wood. If you install foam exterior insulation, secure it with a durable cladding at grade so rodents do not carve it.
The function of geography and season
Regional context shapes strategy. In Florida and coastal Georgia, subterranean termites are ruthless, and palmetto bugs (American cockroaches) will find garage spaces in a week. Soil pre-treat, slab edge defense, and garage door thresholds are non-negotiable. In the Upper Midwest, field mice and cluster flies control fall issues. Attic vent screening and precise door weatherstripping pay off. In the Pacific Northwest, Carpenter ants and moisture are the duo to see. Roof and window flashing, plus year-round dehumidification in basements, make the difference.
Season also determines strategies. Spring is swarmer season for termites and ants, when you may see wings near doors or windows. That is a sign to require examination, even if you treated pre-construction. Summer brings wasps and mosquitoes as crews finish punch work with doors propped open, so coordinate schedules and keep entry doors closed when possible. Fall concentrates on sealing for rodents and occasional intruders before the first frost. Winter is quieter, a good time to address attic spaces and insulation voids without battling insects.
A practical upkeep rhythm for several years one
Think of the very first year as commissioning your house. You are not simply living in it, you are ending up the construct by recognizing little problems before they compound.
Walk the exterior regular monthly for the very first season. Look for mulch approaching, soil settling to expose or bury foundation edges, gaps where energies go into, and damaged screens. Bring a tube of high-quality sealant and repair what you can on the spot. Keep notes on anything that requires a trade to address, like a misfit door sweep or a flashing question.
Check the mechanical penetrations each quarter. The a/c lineset, the condensate discharge, the heater consumption and exhaust, and the clothes dryer vent need to be tight and insulated where appropriate. That dryer vent hood flap ought to close totally. I have actually seen starlings and mice both press into a low-cost vent.
Test and change weatherstripping. Insert a dollar expense at the bottom of outside doors and close them. If the expense moves easily, you have a space. Change the strike plate or replace the sweep. Do not forget the door from the garage to your home. Numerous builds pass code with that door fire-rated, but the seal is typically an afterthought.
Monitor humidity. Position an affordable hygrometer in the lowest level and one on the primary floor. Go for 35 to half in https://judahkoce345.wordpress.com/2026/01/09/why-exist-ants-in-my-clean-cooking-area-concealed-reasons-and-repairs/ heating season, 45 to 55 percent in cooling season. If you are outside these ranges, insects are not your only issue, but they will be part of it.
Make a Sanity Shelf in the garage. Keep grain products, family pet food, and birdseed in sealed containers. Shop yard seed and fertilizer off the flooring. If you see droppings, do not presume they are old. Sweep them up, then inspect back in a day or more. Fresh pellets mean existing activity and justify trapping and a closer look for entry points.
Chemicals, bait, and barriers: what to use and when
Chemistry has a place, but it is not a very first relocation, specifically inside a new home. Concentrate on 3 tiers.
Physical barriers come first. Screens, door sweeps, copper mesh packed into bigger spaces before sealing, and hardware fabric over crawlspace vents are long lasting and do not off-gas. For gaps around pipelines, I like a two-part method: backer rod or copper mesh, then a top quality elastomeric sealant or mortar patch.
Targeted baits make sense for ants and rodents when you have confirmed routes or activity. Place ant baits along edges where you see movement, not in the middle of a room. If baits go unblemished for days, you either misidentified the ant types or the food choice, or you eliminated the path but not the nest, so reassess. For mice, snap traps stay the most gentle and diagnostic. They inform you where the problem is. If you select rodenticide outdoors, utilize locked, tamper-resistant stations and understand the danger to non-target wildlife.
Residual sprays are the last option in a new develop. If you hire a pest control company for a border treatment, ask what they utilize, where they use it, and why. Barrier sprays can work versus ants and occasional invaders, however they ought to accompany exemption and wetness correction, not change them. Inside your home, prevent broadcast insecticides. Gel baits and crack-and-crevice applications, used moderately, fix cockroach intros better than a fogger.
What homeowners typically overlook
Even conscientious owners miss out on a couple of predictable items.
The attic gain access to is frequently uninsulated and unsealed. A simple gasketed, insulated cover minimizes warm, moist air circulation into the attic that brings in overwintering insects. A wasp nest near the hatch is not a random choice, it is warm and protected.
Deck ledger flashing is in some cases insufficient. Water seeps, the wood softens, and within a season or more, carpenter ants move in. If you see rust streaks or staining under the journal, have it opened and corrected.
Stone veneer versus grade looks premium however can hide a course for termites and ants if there is no clear space at the base and no weep details. Keep mulch away from veneer and have a pro check if you remain in a termite area.
The garage-to-attic chase is a highway. Many connected garages have an open chase where utilities rise. If that is not fireblocked and sealed, mice ride it. Ask your builder if firestopping at top plates was confirmed after trades cut holes.
Landscape lumbers and fire wood next to your home are an invitation. Keep fire wood stacked 20 feet away if possible and off the ground. Landscape ties treated with creosote appear difficult, however they harbor ants and termites under the surface.
A short, useful starter plan
- Before closing: confirm termite pre-treat or bait strategy in writing, ask the home builder to seal visible utility penetrations, and ensure door sweeps and garage limits are tight. Weeks 1 to 8: manage humidity with fans and dehumidifiers, break down boxes quickly, change weatherstripping, and right grading that holds water. Month 3: check attic and crawl or basement for spaces, droppings, nests, and moisture; screen vents if needed. Month 6: prune plantings away from siding, pull mulch back from the foundation, and switch outside bulbs to warm-spectrum LEDs. Ongoing: quarterly exterior strolls with sealant in hand, set traps initially sign of rodents, and call a pest control professional when you see repeat activity.
Budgeting and expectations
Preventive bug work is low-cost compared to remediation. Expect to invest a couple of hundred dollars in year one on sealants, thresholds, door sweeps, screening, and perhaps a dehumidifier. A professional examination with a boundary treatment, if suitable, may run 200 to 500 dollars depending upon area and house size. Termite bonds with yearly assessments normally range from 200 to 400 dollars annually for a single-family home, with retreatment consisted of if needed.
Be realistic about limits. No insects is not a thing in a lot of environments. The goal is no nests inside and no structural danger. A handful of ants after a rain, a random spider, or a wasp beginning a paper nest under a deck is regular. What is not normal is seeing active trails inside, droppings that reappear after cleaning, or repeated wing stacks in the exact same window corner.
Working well with your builder and trades
Communication makes whatever simpler. Raise pest avoidance during pre-construction conferences and once again throughout mechanical rough-in. Request a fast walkthrough with the superintendent after siding and outside trim depend on take a look at penetrations and limits. When punch lists stretch into warm months, remind teams to keep doors closed and jobsite garbage contained.
If you see a gap or moisture issue, document it with photos, note the location, and share it respectfully. You are not nitpicking, you are protecting their work. The majority of supers value a house owner who notices details that conserve service warranty calls later.
When working with an exterminator, share your develop details: slab or crawl, outside insulation, siding type, pre-treat documents, and any wetness quirks you have observed. The more context they have, the better the plan they can design.
The bottom line
New homes are not immune to insects. They are temporarily more vulnerable due to the fact that construction interferes with soil and environment, and ending up often leaves little spaces that smart bugs and rodents will discover. The good news is that avoidance is abnormally reliable at this stage. Thoughtful sealing, moisture control, cautious landscaping, and a modest partnership with a pest control professional will keep most problems at bay. Treat pest prevention as part of commissioning your brand-new home, and you will spend more time enjoying that brand-new paint odor and less time learning what carpenter ant frass looks like in a windowsill.
NAP
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Popular Questions About Valley Integrated Pest Control
What services does Valley Integrated Pest Control offer in Fresno, CA?
Valley Integrated Pest Control provides pest control service for residential and commercial properties in Fresno, CA, including common needs like ants, cockroaches, spiders, rodents, wasps, mosquitoes, and flea and tick treatments. Service recommendations can vary based on the pest and property conditions.
Do you provide residential and commercial pest control?
Yes. Valley Integrated Pest Control offers both residential and commercial pest control service in the Fresno area, which may include preventative plans and targeted treatments depending on the issue.
Do you offer recurring pest control plans?
Many Fresno pest control companies offer recurring service for prevention, and Valley Integrated Pest Control promotes pest management options that can help reduce recurring pest activity. Contact the team to match a plan to your property and pest pressure.
Which pests are most common in Fresno and the Central Valley?
In Fresno, property owners commonly deal with ants, spiders, cockroaches, rodents, and seasonal pests like mosquitoes and wasps. Valley Integrated Pest Control focuses on solutions for these common local pest problems.
What are your business hours?
Valley Integrated Pest Control lists hours as Monday through Friday 7:00 AM–5:00 PM, Saturday 7:00 AM–12:00 PM, and closed on Sunday. If you need a specific appointment window, it’s best to call to confirm availability.
Do you handle rodent control and prevention steps?
Valley Integrated Pest Control provides rodent control services and may also recommend practical prevention steps such as sealing entry points and reducing attractants to help support long-term results.
How does pricing typically work for pest control in Fresno?
Pest control pricing in Fresno typically depends on the pest type, property size, severity, and whether you choose one-time service or recurring prevention. Valley Integrated Pest Control can usually provide an estimate after learning more about the problem.
How do I contact Valley Integrated Pest Control to schedule service?
Call (559) 307-0612 to schedule or request an estimate. For Spanish assistance, you can also call (559) 681-1505. You can follow Valley Integrated Pest Control on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube
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